Greasing the Wheels

Mexico has several levels of economy operating simultaneously. There is the regular economy, which buys and sells in international markets of moneys and goods. This is represented by banks, regular retail stores, and the growing number of U.S.-based giants such as Wal-Mart and The Home Depot. Then there is another layer, local businesses of craft, art, food, hospitality like hotels and taxi companies. Then there is the artesenian layer, which is the most fascintating to me. This includes all the stalls on the street here in town, the wandering musicians, the produce vendors in the markets and the guys who make elotes and cocos frescas in the street. Below that is the pitiable, but still dignified level of the indiginous vendor, and handicapped musician. At the very bottom is the most desperate and sad beggar, who by life choices or miserable circumstances can barely lift a hand to accept a coin. These levels overlap some, and there are no real defining lines between them, and I am sure there are finer distinctions to be made, but you can see examples of each of these everywhere, in every city in Mexico.

In every level, money talks. Jon once remarked as we observed the local Indians hanging over the wire fence at El Tajin to sell jicama and watermelon, that the reason Mexicans are always selling stuff is because Mexicans are always buying stuff. It's great when there are tourists around, but Mexicans also buy from each other in a steady stream of small cash payments. There are whole levels of economy, the largest transaction of which might be as much as 50 pesos. Some prices are negotiable, but some are not, and it's not always clear when they will be or not.

We have noticed that it is very rare for ANY business to have correct change for cash transactions. This is a problem when the ATMS traffic exclusively in 500 peso notes. It is more than likely that if you buy something, even if it costs 300 pesos or more, the shopkeeper will have to run next door for the change. This brings up the question of why, if their neighbor has the change, do they not? OR is it really all just one giant store, and so the money belongs to all? Whatever the case, this is why we stood in line to get change at the bank the other day.

After our miraculous recovery of the ATM card, Jon wanted to stop in to the shop selling dulces regionales and buy some candy for the bank worker who helped us. He found a nice wrapped package of colorful dried and candied fruit, and we stopped back at the bank to give it to the man. It was just closing time, so we knocked on the door, and let the folks inside know that we had a present for our helper. They called him to come and accept his gift, and we went on our way.

It wasn't long before we were out of cash again. So we stopped at the same ATM- our friend waved at us- and once again were faced with a pile of 500s. So once again we stood in line for the teller. This time, however, our friend joined us, behind the counter, and somehow got the teller to give us TONS of small bills! We got a stack of 20s that I am still doling out for tips and small purchases. Also 50s which are very useful.

Jon is sure it's because of the candy!